The autumn vibes are still going strong. Those poplars I can see from my window that held out for so long are finally a bright shade of yellow, and are gradually shedding the first of the leaves from their tops.
So there’s only one thing for it, leaning back into the autumnal cosiness and sharing another of my favourite quiet corners of Spain to explore on a November weekend.
This week, the focus is on the remote little village of Arnedillo, a quaint little spot two hours from Zaragoza, in the tiny yet legendary comunidad autónoma of La Rioja.
It’s the perfect spot for a day trip, but is even better for an overnight van stay.
We’ve now been there twice, once in March and once in November, and though the wine and hot springs are a treat at any time of year, those autumn colours and the chill in the air give it a certain extra something.
The hot springs
Gloriously warm natural hot springs right next to a cold river to dunk in? Yes please.
These free springs are brilliant on a brisk autumnal day, but for me, they’re best at night. Just make sure you’ve got warm clothes to change into quickly if you’re visiting from autumn to spring, so your relaxed muscles don’t contract into blocks of ice as soon as you summon the willpower to emerge.
The pools below are the main springs (and the warmest one is the closest one, where the water emerges), but there are a few other pools just a little further down the river to check out too.
Just as a caveat, though, plenty of people know about these hot springs, and that’s ever increasing thanks to the Instagram effect (but I think I’m safe sharing it with all 25 of you lovely subscribers).
There’s lots of space, but to avoid overcrowding and for a more relaxing experience, try to come on a school night.
The hiking
There are a few marked walks around Arnedillo, from a short route down one side of the valley and up the other to a couple of longer options.
But as well as trying those out, we also just took to the paths behind the van park and headed in a general uphill direction. We wound up past ruins of rural dwellings to the height where the vultures circle, to see what was on the other side of the mountain (spoiler, it was the other side of the mountain, but lovely nonetheless).
No one else was up there, even when the springs below were buzzing with lots of Saturday visitors. It doesn’t take much imagination to find a corner that you’ll have all to yourself.
The wine
You know how wine always tastes better when you drink it right where it’s produced?
Well, take it from me that Rioja tastes best in a small village in the middle of nowhere in La Rioja, when it costs a euro a glass.
On both our trips to Arnedillo, we’ve been back to the same bar, La Huella, which at the time of writing is showing up as temporarily closed. I hope for everyone’s sake that doesn’t last long.
It’s a dog-friendly spot that serves delicious burgers (including a veggie burger) and the local wine hits the spot. The trick is resisting a glass too many when it’s very cheap and very good.
The sleeping spot
I’ve got a post brewing in my drafts about how to pick the best wild camping spots when you’re doing the van thing in Spain, but this is one of the rare non-wild camping spots that we’ve found and loved.
It’s perched up above the village, so it’s got panoramic views of the valley, a treat when you slide open your doors in the morning. It’s got picnic tables, big parking spots and clean loos, and costs roughly €10 for 24 hours (proportionally less if you don’t stick around that long).
The dinosaurs
Whilst you’re in the area, head further down the winding road to check out the ancient dinosaur footprints, complete with life-size models. Not earthshattering, but fascinating.
Oh, and on the other side of town, the road in and out of Arnedillo is a treat in itself. Once you turn off the main road and leave the endless grape vines behind, burnished by the sun all summer long and now everything from yellow to a vivid red, you’ll find yourself on a route that runs just under cliffs with caves cut into them and vultures perching on ledges. Keep your eyes peeled.
And once you’ve had your fill of Arnedillo, carry on with the rest of your adventure in La Rioja, setting course for the tapas bars of Logroño. But that’s a topic for another day.
You're certainly safe sharing it with this subscriber - it's a bit of a trek from here!