In late October, the first signs start appearing. The fence goes up, the sand is shipped in, and the real-life olive trees appear. The biggest nativity scene (known as a “belén”, meaning Bethlehem, in Spanish) begins to take shape.
Not long after that, the wooden cabins of the Christmas market materialise, the sledging slope claims its territory, and the ice skating rink is built over the Fuente de la Hispanidad. The city hall puts on its signature red bow, and around about now (it all opened on the 30th of November this year), Christmas in Zaragoza officially begins.
Now, you don’t need me to tell you that Spain shouldn’t be at the top of your list for the best Christmas experiences there are. It tries, and its efforts improve every year, but it doesn’t do quite as good a job at the cosy Christmas vibes as pretty much everywhere else in Europe.
(I’ve got a post up my sleeve all about what to expect from a Spanish Christmas, but we’ll save that for closer to the time.)
But one fun thing you find in Spain, which I myself haven’t seen anywhere else, are the nativity scenes of all shapes and sizes, some to be looked at, and some, like Zaragoza’s, to be strolled through.
If you do find yourself here at this time of year, a wander around this Christmassy maze in the centre of the vast pedestrianised Plaza del Pilar, right in front of the soaring cathedral, is a wonderfully festive experience that’s not to be sniffed at.
The nativity scene
It’s no wonder that the magnificent Plaza del Pilar once again becomes the heart of the city when December arrives. Such a huge space, it has to be filled with something on the same grand scale.
The massive belén has been a feature of a maño (the local way of saying Zaragozan) Christmas since 1972, although apparently it was far smaller back then, just 30 square metres. It’s steadily been growing since and now covers an impressive 1200.
The figures and buildings can’t quite be called life-size, but they’re pretty close, and taking a walk along the paved (with real stones, no wonder the whole thing takes a month to construct) winding, one-way street of this little Bethlehem is a charming experience.
You see life in the village, with craftspeople at work (complete with sound effects) and a market stall selling its wares (with real fruit and veg on offer), before you get to the stable where the birthday boy lies.
There are 56 human figures in total, and the sheep, goats, dogs, ducks, geese, donkeys and cows take the total up to over 100. There’s even a river, with bridges, tiny waterfalls and a turning water wheel.
It’s the little details, like the flowering heather and the real olives on the trees, that really make the whole thing feel like a labour of love. So, don’t rush through. Give yourself time to spot them.
The same figures come out every year, but it’s never quite the same. The creators rearrange all the characters and buildings so it always feels new, even though you’ll spot your favourites if you come back year after year, as we do.
When I look at it, I always wonder what happens to the figures and the trees for the other 10 months of the year. I picture a big warehouse somewhere with all the models quietly biding their time, perhaps being given a fresh coat of paint. I picture the olive trees lined up just outside, sunning themselves and waiting for their time to shine to come around again.
Now, fair warning, brace yourself for the crowds, as this is a bit of an institution, and people from all over Zaragoza, Aragón and beyond will make the trip here at some point over the festive season.
Your best bet? Come during the day, or on a school night, or just resign yourself to the fact you’ll have to queue to get in.
Bear in mind that this is Spain, so the nativity scene shuts up shop for a few hours in the middle of the day. If it catches you out, go for a few tapas in El Tubo instead and come back later.
What else to do in Zaragoza in December
After you’ve spent 20 minutes or so wandering the nativity scene and noticing all the tiny details, you’ll be wondering what else you can do on a festive trip to Zaragoza.
Well, there’s plenty on offer:
🎄Stroll around the Christmas market and treat yourself to some chocolate con churros from a stall (or get them from the more authentic La Fama just around the corner).
🎄Have a go at sledging or skating in the Plaza del Pilar (more geared towards kids).
🎄Head from the Plaza del Pilar down Calle Alfonso, Independencia (estrenando, or breaking out, brand new lights this year), Gran Vía and Fernando el Católico, admiring the countless sparkling LEDs that’ll light your way.
🎄Munch on some roasted chesnuts from a stall as you go, in true Spanish fashion.
🎄Grab yourself a ticket for the festival of lights, Naturaleza Encendida, in Parque Grande.
Need tips for a trip to Zaragoza, at Christmas or any other time of year?
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