There’s rain spattering the window, and I’ve got a candle burning on my desk. Although the poplars I can see under the heavy clouds are only just starting to inch towards gold, the chestnuts by the river are shedding more leaves by the day. I’m feeling all cosy, nostalgic and autumnal, so it’s the perfect day to write about the places to visit here in Aragon to watch the leaves fall.
Autumn in Aragon can mean 20+ degree days on a sun-trap terrace sipping a vermouth, but it can also mean chilly afternoons in the mountains marvelling at the way the yellow, red and orange of the leaves contrasts with the white of the waterfalls and the snowcapped peaks, and the way that’s all set off by the blue sky above.
Occasionally, it’ll mean drizzly days like today, unexpected downpours or fierce storms coming in off the Mediterranean. But although rain is inevitable (and very necessary), there’s no shortage of bright sunny days, perfect for exploring.
For my very first Substack (and it’s been a long time coming), here’s a round-up of my favourite places to visit when the temperatures finally dip and the leaves start to crisp and crunch.
Parque Natural de Moncayo
There’s something wonderfully romantic about this lonely mountain rising up from the plains of the Ebro’s river valley.
At weekends, you’ll have to share the northern slopes with enthusiastic mushroom foragers, but there are endless paths that wind through the woods to get lost on.
With a forest that turns multicoloured and incredible views of the flat expanses all around, this is a slice of autumnal heaven just an hour from Zaragoza.
Bujaruelo
Everyone raves about the Parque Nacional de Ordesa and Monte Perdido, and for good reason. It’s stunning up there all year, but takes on a whole new magic when the leaves turn.
And that means everyone in Spain knows about it and wants to tick it off their bucket list, so the car parks fill up super early (especially at weekends), and then you can only access it by bus, tricky with dogs, or a very long walk.
My tip? Drive through quaint Broto (don’t forget to check out the waterfall, especially if it’s been raining), then Torla, but swing a left at the roundabout where the Ordesa access road begins and head for San Nicolás de Bujaruelo instead. The drive from here on is a treat in itself, with white waterfalls tumbling off the steep mountainsides and leaves of every colour.
Start at the impossibly picturesque bridge and either take a relaxed stroll along the valley or head for the heights.
When you’ve had your fill, the road to Ordesa will probably be open as day trippers head down the mountain, so nip up there for a short walk before dark and watch the mountain turn to copper.
Looking for more autumn colour in the Pyrenees? You won’t have to look very hard. There’s a show being put on all over the mountain range, in the Valle de Tena, la Selva de Oza and pretty much anywhere you care to turn. Bring your raincoat and hiking boots and find your own favourite spots.
Jaca, and San Juan de la Peña
There’s something about the mountain town of Jaca that lends itself to being explored in autumn. Check out the fort (dog-friendly) and then take a stroll down to the 15th-century San Miguel bridge over the river Aragón, and admire the view of many colours downstream.
Back to Jaca, set a course for the Viejo Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña, a monastery built into a cave (check opening times and maybe grab yourself a ticket in advance). From the new monastery up the hill, make for the Balcón de los Pirineos, strolling between the rainbow trees and revelling in the view.
Monasterio de Piedra
This isn’t a hidden gem or an undiscovered secret by any means, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth visiting the Monasterio de Piedra near Calatayud in the autumn, especially if you can go midweek.
After being devastated by the DANA last autumn, it’s up and running again, and although I haven’t been back to see the effects of the floods for myself, I’m sure it’ll still be as magical as ever.
Beyond the ruins of the monastery, you’ll find a fairy forest with a canopy that spreads over countless waterfalls, including one inside a cave, accessed by a spiral staircase cut into the rock.
The ideal autumnal day out, whether the sun’s out or there are clouds adding to the atmosphere.
Any other Aragonese autumnal feasts for the eyes I should know about? There’s still time for more exploring this year, so let me know in the comments so I can put them on my list.
I visited the Monasterio de Piedra in September! Lovely. I don't drive, so I was quite limited as to where I could go.
That photo of the copper-topped mountain is gorgeous 😀